Forever Protected---Madison River Access and surrounding lands

It could’ve all been locked up, and it would have looked a lot different.

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Think how the $3 and Raynolds Bridge areas would look if the miles of river front and thousands of acres of uplands were developed and dotted with homes. Consider if we sat back and allowed the Oliffee and $3 Ranches between Raynolds and $3 and its incredible wildlife population of grizzly and black bear, wolverine, elk, moose and pronghorn, bighorn sheep and mule deer to be sold, developed and under lock and key with no public access. Today though, these thousands of acres and miles of native and wild trout habitat are protected and open to the public for fishing, birdwatching, hiking and hunting, FOREVER.

When we began the $3 Bridge Access Project no one thought we could complete it. But, thanks to partners like the late Alex Diekmann of Trust for Public Lands and River Network’s Hugh Zachiem (now Western River Conservancy), private land owners like the Oliffee Ranch family and Bob and Annie Graham of $3 and Elk Meadow Ranches we completed this incredible program that serves as a model continuing the conservation program forward protecting 55% of the Madison River and its valley from harmful streamside and upland development.

I am proud to work with these partners for over 20 years and continue projects that protect, preserve and enhance the valley for future generations.

We’ve done a lot, but there’s far more to do. Stay here to keep informed.

Check out our short video of how it began!

Craig Matthews speaks about conservation and The Trust For Public Land at $3 Bridge on the Madison River, Montana.

A few thoughts on winter midges and Do NOT book your flight, yet!

Winter on the Madison River, Cameron, Montana.

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Winter midge mat.

OK, let’s get this straight. While winter midge fishing can offer up more rising trout than at any other time of the fly-fishing year, it is at best, inconsistent. I’ve seen incredible rises of trout to midge activity when air temps could not break zero. I’ve fished great midge activity with large trout rising to them during snowfall so heavy you could hear big snowflakes hiss as they fell to the ground. I’ve fished good rises while I kept my truck’s engine running so I could run up to its warm cab and thaw frozen fingers out between releasing trout caught on dry midge patterns. The dry fly fishing can be great but remember too, and it can be slow as well.

I do not suggest anglers call their travel agent and book a flight to arrive in Yellowstone country in January, or February, solely to fish winter midge times. But if a fly-fisher is here to ski or tour Yellowstone I recommend the angler bring along fishing gear in case good midge conditions occur, the fishing can be that good. What are “good midge conditions?” The most promising weather you can wish for, such that it brings on strong emergence of midges and fish rising to them, is calm conditions. This is key. If the wind is blowing chances of finding fish rising to midges diminishes. I have fished great midge activity with big fish rising to them every week of the winter as long as the wind is not blowing, no matter what the air temperature is. The micro-climate on or near the surface film on rivers allows midges to emerge and reproduce even on the coldest winter days so long as calm winds prevail.

Snowy banks of the Madison River, Montana.

I like to arrive on the water around noon. I will find a knee-deep pool or pocket behind a likely boulder, and sit on water watching for fish to rise. I am amazed how many anglers I observe run to the river, jump in and immediately begin heaving nymphs with large bobbers in heavy water. I often talk to them at the end of the day and most complain they’d like to midge fish but, “did not see a fish rise all day” I believe mostly due to their lack of observation and the belief the more water they cover the better chance they have of taking trout. Many times I’ve taken several rising fish in one pool while watching these anglers struggling upstream in the heavy currents, never touching a fish.

Cloudy days are best to approach and fish rising trout. Trout rising to midges do so in shallow water, bright sunny conditions bring shadows that spook risers. False casting can put down trout rising to midges, and so can casting line shadow. Usually you get one chance to present an accurate cast to a rising trout.

Rainbow rising to midges.

I am always patient and extra careful, slowly approach trout rising to midges. I won’t wade if possible. A wading wave sent upstream to risers will certainly put fish on alert, they might cease rising for the day. I get close to rising fish, sometimes within a rod length away, and allow several confidence rises before my first presentation. This lets me observe what side of its mouth the fish is rising to midges and if the fish is rising to individual emerging midges or clusters of several mating midges.

I knot on fresh tippet to my 9’ 4x leader, usually 3-4 feet of 5.5 or 6x Trout Hunter tippet. If fish are coming up for single midge emergers I’ll present an Improved Zelon or Scotty’s Midge, the size dependent on the size of the naturals, usually #20-24. Midges are susceptible to emergence difficulties in winter and fish rising to them key on emerging insects trapped in their pupal shucks, hence a pattern with a trailing shuck is necessary for success.

If fish are coming up for midge clusters I will determine the size of cluster they prefer. Simply by observing the clusters rolling through the narrow feeding lanes big rising trout use to feed in I can see whether a fish prefers a small cluster, say a size #20 comprised of a few midges, or a larger cluster #14-16 comprised of dozens of individual midges. Large fish prefer certain size midge clusters, whether a #14 or a #20. It can make the difference between catching a couple good trout, or several good fish in an hour or two of midge activity.

I made the comment 2 paragraphs above about determining what side of its mouth the fish is rising with to take midges. This is important since larger fish might only allow one cast before going down, big fish can be that tough. Most fish are left or right mouthed, this can be seen by examining hooking scars of individual trout therefore the importance of presenting a cast to the side of the fish it is rising to midges from. Now I’m close to the rising fish, usually within 12 feet, and have figured out what midge pattern to present. I’ve knotted on fresh tippet and a fly.

I usually fish from my knees on knee-padded Patagonia waders. I determine the trout is rising from its left side to intercept the naturals. I’m downstream of the fish so I present a pinpoint accurate cast on a short line about 2 feet upstream of the rising fish and within 6 inches of its left side. I hold my breath as the #22 Scotty’s Midge approaches the big fish. I can see it slide over, head completely out of the water in a classic midge rise, and intercept my offering. I raise my rod, the only audience I have is a couple mallard ducks that take flight when the fat 16” rainbow leaps out of the water and runs downstream.

They work to continue the core values of public ownership of public wildlife and public access to public resources. They work with public officials and agency personnel to promote sound stewardship of natural resources and to preserve Montana fishing and hunting heritage.

You will want to join this group! I have.

Coatimundi, winter midges, bird dogs and conservation on the border

Gorgeous pristine grasslands near Patagonia, Arizona.

Jackie, the dogs and I decided to visit friends on the Arizona-Mexican border this week. We met Ron and Char at their camp near Patagonia, Az and proceeded to nearby grasslands, some of the last remaining unfragmented grassland ecosystem between California and Texas. Here Arizona white and Emory oak trees dot the nearby canyons, washes and vast grasslands.

We stopped to admire the views, let the dogs run and talk about a huge coatimundi we’d seen along the way. While enjoying the quiet open vistas a pickup truck drove up and the driver popped out to visit. It turned out the driver, Gooch, owned the ranchland we sat on. Sensing good-karma we discussed his ranch, preserving this incredible grassland ecosystem, conservation easements and protecting clean water and air. It turns out Gooch works with the Patagonia Area Resource Alliance, a grassroots non-profit Alliance committed to preserving and protecting this area. Gooch explained this citizen watchdog organization monitors the activities of nearby mining companies as well as ensuring government agencies due diligence to make sure their activities have long term sustainable benefits to public lands, water and the small town of Patagonia, Az. I encouraged Gooch to have his organization contact 1% for the Planet to make sure they become part of the long list of research and approved conservation causes to receive donations from 1% members. Please take a moment and enjoy PARA’s website attached here and if you visit the area stop in for a visit. Too, if you have a few extra bucks send a donation to this fine group of people working so hard to make sure we’ll forever have this valuable grassland and its wildlife, protecting this ecosystem’s clean water and air for future generations to enjoy.

Dozer points covey of quail near Patagonia, Arizona.

Next we stopped at a seasonal stream. Here we have lunch, lean back on the warm bank and grab a short knap. I look up and become homesick as clouds of midges swarmed overhead. I could not help think about missing winter midge fishing on the Madison, Henry’s Fork and Livingston’s spring creeks.

I daydream about big wild trout rising to tiny, emerging midges. Rainbow and brown trout coming up for #22-24 midge emergers, their heads poking straight up, completely out of the water like a porpoise nosing a ball.

United States/Mexico border.

I sneak close to rising fish being extra careful, trout feeding on midges do so in shallow water and spook easily. I approach from downstream keeping in mind fish rising to midges do so in very narrow feeding lanes and I must deliver a pinpoint accurate presentation. There are often many fish rising, I can’t flock shoot and spray casts or I’ll put the risers down. Instead I pick a good fish and present my pattern a foot or two above it allowing the fly to drift naturally without drag.

I’ll use three feet of 6x tippet, knotting on a Scotty’s or Improved Zelon Midge, both patterns imitate an emerging midge stuck in its pupal shuck, unable to escape the surface film and one trout key on and recognize as easy prey since it cannot readily fly off the water.

I smile knowing we’ll be back in snowy Montana soon and I’ll be fishing midge times on the river. Today though we’ll continue our drive and tour near Sierra Vista and Hereford, Az enjoying warm sun and friends.

Craig and Jackie at United States of America and Mexico border.

Stay tuned here for winter midge fishing reports, new fly pattern and tying material ideas and thoughts on fishing gear- new products, fly-fishing etiquette and much more to follow soon. Thanks for reading!

Dogs, desert and quail

It’s 66 degrees, sunny and calm at 4p.m. I’m sitting next to a huge saguaro cactus typing this. Obviously, we’re not in the Madison Valley. Jackie, our shorthair pointers Finn, Dozer and Gizmo left Montana for a couple weeks to enjoy desert sunshine and quail shooting. We’re finding low quail numbers but still like to walk nearby arroyos, mesas and mesquite flats. This morning Dozer lifted his head into the light breeze, wiggling and snaking his way through cactus he locked while Gizzy and Finn backed his rock-solid point. I walked in and flushed a pair of gambel quail scoring a male on a lucky shot. The dogs circled around and pinned another pair of birds in a cluster of prickly pear cactus. Gizmo was the lead dog on point, he looked regal with his tail and head held high. I pulled another lucky shot. There was some disagreement between the dogs as to which one would retrieve and bring the bird back to me but, in the end, Gizmo delivered it to hand.

Jackie gave the dogs a well-deserved drink while I cleaned the birds, preserving the skins and feathers for fly-tying. We talked about how great it was we were hunting and hiking BLM land, the same we area we have for over 40 years. We discussed how our freezer was full with elk, bighorn sheep, whitetail deer, pheasants, dusky, ruffed and sharp tail grouse all taken on public lands during last fall’s hunting season, and how fortunate we are to have these public lands and organizations like Backcountry Hunters and Anglers that make sure we will have them, forever. I joined BHA as a life member last year for this reason.

Please, for our kids and grandkids, join and support organizations like BHA.

I’ll be writing soon about our bighorn sheep hunt last fall along with my 41st elk in 41 seasons and more about our public lands. Stay tuned, and thanks so much for reading.

December 30, 2019

                                                                        Welcome!

I want to extend warm Yellowstone welcome to you, and thank you for reading my first blog entry. I decided to develop this site to begin telling the past twenty-year conservation story of the Madison River and its valley, along with that of Yellowstone National Park’s fishery programs, and more. If you love Yellowstone and the Madison, and other southwestern Montana rivers, wild and native fish and wildlife, and wild places I urge you to become involved in protecting and preserving these resources for all future generations.

In future entries we will examine many successful conservation stories this area has seen during the last 2 decades along with a hard look at future projects and programs. Along the way you can expect current fishing reports, wildlife news, fun hikes and fly-tying news, and much more.

Thank you for being a part of these adventures and I hope you tell your friends to come along and join us. 

December 30, 2019

Today I was determined to fish the river only to have slush ice flows stymie my plans. Last night temps dipped near zero causing anchor and frazil ice to form. By 2p.m. air temps had warmed into the mid-20’s and ice flows broke loose and made for near impossible fishing conditions downstream of Lyon Bridge. Still, I knotted on a #4 black rubber legged stonefly nymph and attempted to cast to open water pieces between the ice flows. One in four presentations managed to sink the fly before becoming hung up on ice. In an hour slugging it out I scored 2 beautiful rainbow trout, both 15” and beginning to show spawning colors even though we’re fully 2 months away. Heading home I could not have been happier with my 2wild trout. 

Back home Jackie and I sat at my fly-tying desk enjoying hot chocolate. Me working on a couple black rubber leg stone nymphs while she scanned the Madison Range with our spotting scope in search of mountain goats and bighorn sheep. Tomorrow we’ll head south to chase quail with our 3 shorthairs returning home in time for winter midge fishing to begin late January. Stay tuned here for quail and fish reports to follow and thanks again for joining our new adventure!

Winter Memories along the Madison River

Forty-two winters fishing and cross-country skiing along the river seems like a long run, but for us they’ve flowed quickly by. This morning I was reading thru my old fishing logs and came across an early winter entry dated over thirty years ago. On that cold day our good friend and former business partner John Juracek joined Jackie and I for an afternoon of midge fishing on the Madison.

When we drove by Garnet Oliffee’s Ranch near Raynold’s Bridge we saw the old man feeding his cows throwing hay from a horse drawn sleigh. It was overcast, still and calm and we could hear Garnet yelling commands to his horses over a mile away. Pulling on waders at the truck we saw midges fly by, some crashing into the snowbanks along the road. We smiled knowing fish would be rising to emerging midges in the pools and pockets upstream of the bridge.

It was noon so we pocketed our lunches and slugged through the knee-deep snow to the river working our way to Ross Merigold Rock. There we sat munching elk salami sandwiches and watching fish noses poking thru the surface taking impaired midge emergers.

John and I wanted Jackie to fish first, encouraging her to quickly knot on fresh 6x tippet and a #22 Improved Zelon Midge before a herd of pronghorn standing on the shoreline across the river decided to wade to our side and through our pool spooking the rising fish. You see, we were planted on the river on the pronghorns’ migration path. Jackie’s first cast rose a small rainbow that she landed and quickly released so we could move upstream, away from the antelope and their migration route.

The Madison Valley is situated in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and plays a key ecological role in connecting this ecologically intact ecosystem to other intact areas in the Central Rocky Mountains. The valley’s pronghorns are part of the 2nd longest antelope migration corridor/route in the United States and its bighorn sheep, wolverine, grizzly and black bear populations are unmatched in the lower 48. It hosts the largest concentration of wild elk in Montana if not the world with over 10,000 animals in the valley.

Stay here with us to learn more about the incredible Madison Valley, its wildlife and migration corridors and the successful conservation efforts to keep this ecosystem intact for all future generations. Our frequent missives to follow with conservation successes that will keep you and the valley’s wildlife smiling forever!

Welcome to the site!

Stay tuned for weekly updates from Craig Mathews with topics on local wildlife, fishing reports and conservation in the Greater Yellowstone Area.

Protecting Public Lands, the Backbone and Economic Driver of the Madison Valley

Yesterday Jackie and I loaded up fishing gear and headed to $3 Bridge on the Madison River. The truck’s thermometer read 27 degrees when we arrived at the parking lot. Our only company were several mule deer grazing the nearby hillside, nosing thru the snow to feed on sparse sheep and Idaho fescue.

I walked over to the informational sign at the old safe that still stands guard at the site. Every year many anglers inquire about this safe, wondering its purpose and why it is still there. The old cowboys who once owned this incredible section of the Madison River and 5,600 acres surrounding it put the safe there over 50 years ago asking anglers to deposit a daily fee of three dollars that would allow them rights to trespass and fish the area.

There was a sign at the safe announcing to anglers the program to pay $3, park and fish there. Check out the photo below.

Old sign at 3$ bridge, Madison Valley, Montana.

Today the sign is gone and parking is free, and the area along the river is publicly owned by all of us. Check out the photo of the “Acknowledgement” board.

Over 20 years ago we worked with partners on the $3 Bridge Access Acquisition to ensure several miles of the Madison River and surrounding uplands were placed either in public hands, or under strict conservation easement protections forever keeping the area free from harmful streamside development, protecting and enhancing wild trout habitat and allowing the public to fish, hike and enjoy this incredible wild trout river and wildlife habitat, forever.

I looked to the east, across Highway 287, over the Olifee Ranch and into the Madison Mountain Range within the Lee Metcalf Wilderness Area recalling the conservation easement we’d worked on there too. This easement completed the over 2-mile walking path so anglers, birders and hikers could forever walk and wade the river from Raynolds Bridge downstream joining the $3 Bridge access already in place. Too, the Olifee family’s easement secures public access for hunters and hikers, cross country skiers and birders to forever enjoy the ranch and adjoining wilderness.

I tell friends that I am the luckiest guy I know. I’ve been able to live and work, hunt and fish, hike and explore the wonders in the incredible Madison River and its valley resource for over 40years.

Yesterday, staring off at this wild place, I finally pinched myself and woke-up to the main reason Jackie and I were there. Calm conditions and warming temperatures mean winter midges will emerge from the river and wild trout will rise for them. I’d tied up a few new midge patterns the past week and was anxious to try them on rising trout.

We sat on the bank upstream of the venerable old bridge and waited for trout to begin coming to the surface for emerging midges.

We were not disappointed. Within minutes the fish began rising. At first a few small fish came up, we did not cast, instead waiting for larger fish to show.  Within minutes larger fish took over, forcing the smaller trout out of prime feeding lanes. Big noses broke the surface and we were in for an hour of fine winter dry-fly fishing before the wind came up, temps dropped and we headed home for hot chocolate and fly tying. One of my new flies worked very well and is, as so many successful flies are, almost too easy to tie! I’ll share it here soon so stay tuned.

Winter midge fishing on the Madison River, Montana.